The MOLO
VENICE
The MOLO
VENICE
Ever Had PAMPANELLA ?
It's an Obscure ITALIAN DISH
From an OBSCURE REGION Of ITALY ? "MOLISE" !
Pampanella is a traditional pork dish found in the Molise region of Italy. It is relatively unknown dish elsewhere but much loved in the region. There are countless restaurants and street vendors who offer up the bright red pork in various combinations. Various prime cuts of meat are used from the ribs, loin, butt, shoulder to the belly. The meat is marinated in a generous paprika mixture, made from local varieties of chilli) then slowly roasted.
Like porchetta, pampanella is often served as a sandwich alongside pickles and greens and it's how I first discovered it in Italy. From a wonderful butchers in the beautiful commune of San Martino in Pensilis, Molise - I devoured my sandwich in seconds and was super excited to learn how to make it at home.
Pampanella gets its name from the 'Pampini' leaves (vine/grape leaves) which were traditionally used to wrap the meat for roasting. Nowadays, parchment paper or foil wraps the pork, but the name stuck. It's an amazing dish that emphasises just how diverse and exciting regional Italian food can be. If you're not familiar with Pampanella Molisana, now's the time to make friends!
PROCIDA GUIDE
PROCIDA
This volcanic island in the Gulf of Naples seems almost out of time, in the idyllic setting of fishing boats and small villages perched on hills.
Here a typically Mediterranean beauty and from literature to film it was starred in many works. In the late 1950s, Elsa Morante dedicated the book L'Isola di Arturo to this island.
Procida is the queen of slow tourism and should be discovered calmly, with no rush. It offers a perfect mix of natural beauty, glimpses of a long history and unmissable beaches. You can get around easily on foot, but buses or taxis are also available.
The territory of Procida is divided into nine contrade, called grancìe. These are Terra Murata (the oldest), Corricella (the fishing village), Sent'cò (with the commercial port of Marina Grande), Semmarezio, San Leonardo, Madonna della Libera (or Santissima Annunziata), Sant'Antuono, Sant'Antonio and Chiaiolella (a marina). At 16 kilometres in length, every corner is impressive, starting with the many small streets that open onto beaches hidden in bays.
The historic core is the hamlet of Terra Murata , which is in some ways its heart, but equally interesting is the small island of Vivara, connected to Procida by a bridge. Its peculiarity is that it is a protected natural island, which winks at a more informal tourism.
Procida can also be visited in one day, the most important thing is to plan your movements or, alternatively, to let yourself go by instinct or the tips of the locals.
To get there, take the ferry from the port of Naples or Pozzuoli, a one-hour boat ride. You will get to Marina Grande, the harbour and beating heart of the centre, divided between craft shops, bars, small boutiques and rental points for mopeds, bicycles, minicars and various boats.
From here you can move towards the historic centre, climbing up Via Principe Umberto to Piazza dei Martiri, passing by the Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie and stopping at the Belvedere dei Cannoni to observe Marina Corricella in all its wonder.
Terra Murata is the ancient historical centre. Here you can visit Palazzo D'Avalos, which used to be a palace and prison, and get lost among courtyards, stairways and small squares until you reach the 11th-century Abbey of San Michele Arcangelo. In addition, it boasts a museum complex on the three floors below.
The fishermen village, Corricella, is a place you can walk to. The small houses of different colours are reflected in the transparent waters of the marina and it is one of the most beautiful and characteristic views of the island.
The PATH of LEMONS
MAIORI - MINORI
The Path of Lemons is what’s left of the old mule track that connected the villages of the Amalfi coast before the construction of the route SS 163.
It clings along the ridges of the hills, directly above the sea and, as the name clearly suggests, lemon trees are all around.
The path of the Lemons connects Maiori with the nearby Minori, passing through the picturesque village of Torre.
I think that the best starting point is Maiori. From Piazzale Campo you can follow Via Vena and pass the lovely church of Santa Maria a Mare with its dome covered with green and yellow majolica tiles.
Once outside the town, you will find yourself surrounded by the silence, the colors and the scents of the Mediterranean vegetation: terracing of olive trees, vines and, of course, lemons.
Walking in such a relaxing background is so regenerating! And it doesn’t take too long to reach the hamlet of Torre.
Torre is a bunch of houses with the beautiful church of San Michele Arcangelo, dating back to the 10th century. You will be surprised to know that this small village was accessible only by foot and the first cars were able to reach it only in 2014! I think that Torre may be the right place if you want to run away from the hurry of the modern lifestyle and find some quiet.
The good news is that from Torre to Minori the Path of Lemons is mostly downhill.
A panoramic point you cannot miss is the belvedere of the “mortella” (myrtle). From there you can have a fantastic view on Minori, its impressive Basilica and the bell tower, the beach, Torre Paradiso, but also Ravello, the mountains of Scala and Agerola and, in the distance, Amalfi and Atrani.
Another few steps and you reach the historic center of Minori.
Despite being a seaside village, Minori is the city of pasta. In other words is the place to have lunch, believe me!
Once in Minori you can choose to stop and go back, or continue up to Ravello. In this case the Path of Lemons is uphill, but it’s worth it.
Maiori and Minori are small treasures off the most touristic track, while Ravello is certainly more famous. The reason is simple: it’s beautiful! Richard Wagner, Mirò, Virginia Woolf are just some of the famous people who fell in love with that town and decided to live there for a while. You must absolutely visit Villa Rufolo, with its terrace overlooking the sea (I should talk about it in another article).
The whole Path of Lemons is an easy walk, suitable for everyone, even for small children. Just remember that there are many steps and it is good to pay a little attention.
There are fountains, benches and places to stop all along the way.
This path can be traveled in both directions. If you start from Maiori, the departing point will be the Collegiata di Santa Maria a Mare with its wonderful majolica dome. According to the tradition, its name comes from the statue found on the beach around 1200.
Then, let yourself be enthralled by the typical village of Torre and its ancient Church of San Michele Arcangelo in Minori and by the breathtaking panorama from the Mortella belvedere ("mortella" is the dialectal name of myrtle, a very common plant in this area). From the belvedere you can see Ravello and, further in distance, Amalfi and Atrani.
Therefore, this itinerary ends in the municipality of Minori, where we suggest a stop at one of the most famous and renowned pastry shops of the Amalfi Coast: pasticceria Sal De Riso. Get inside and you will never regret it, you will have only a lot of choice. Salvatore de Riso, the pastry shop owner, has turned the products of his land, like the sfusato amalfitano, into the key ingredients of his pastry masterpieces. All of them are delicious but a special mention goes to the famous delizia al limone, a typical lemon cake.
You just need to set off and experience these places full of history characterized by unique landscapes. Moreover, the products of this land are excellent: it is no surprise we find them in the exquisite local gastronomy. Try to believe it!