“Pandemonium” - A state of wild and noisy disorder, confusion, or uproar. So says the dictionary. A funny name for a restaurant. Wouldn’t you say? Trattoria Pandemonium, in Florence is not only my favorite restaurant in Florence, but all of Italy, and one of my favorites that I have ever eaten at in my entire life. Now that’s saying something. Not only is it one of my own personal favorites, it's the favorite of a number of friends of mine who were going to Florence and asked me for restaurant recommendations that I could send them to. Everyone who I told to go there, when they came back from Italy, each and every person told me that “Pandemonium” was their favorite restaurant, and meal of their entire trip. Now that’s saying something. No?
I was quite lucky to discover this special restaurant in the Spring of 1997. I was on an exploratory Italian trip with my business partner Tom T. I went to Vernazza for two days, and my most important part of the trip would be in Venice to explore the Bacari (wine bars) of Venice, once again. In-between Vernazza and Venice, I was to rendezvous with Tom T. and Maron, in Florence, and then some time in Greve and Panzano.
I left Vernazza, and took the train to Florence, where I was so lucky to discover Trattoria Pandemonio. I was staying in a modest hotel, while Tom and Maron were staying at the Luxurious Grand Hotel. They were both doing business in Florence during the day, and I was on my own, so I’d have lunch by myself, and bop around town. After going back to my hotel for a late afternoon nap, I’d get dressed and meet Tom and Maron at The Grand. We’d have a cocktail in the incredibly gorgeous lobby of the hotel. The Grand Hotel in Florence was one of the most beautiful hotels that I’ve ever been in in my life. Absolutely stunning. We drank our Negroni’s and Tom told me that the concierge had recommended a nice restaurant that we would have dinner at later on. We left the hotel and hopped in a taxi, and it was off to Pandemonio.
A few minutes in the taxi, and we were at Pandomonio. We walked in and were cordially greeted by Mamma. Mamma was wonderful. She was the owner. A sprite lady in her late 50s, and absolutely charming, and lots of fun. She is one of those ladies that the late great Anthony Bourdain often talked of and dreamed about. The kind of Italian lady who Tony wished was his Nonna. You know what I mean? Of course. The kind of lady who brightens and is in charge of any room she’s in. And this room, the dining room at Pandemonio, was “Mamma” room. Why mamma? That’s what everyone calls her, and she runs the show.
Pandemonio is a lovely trattoria with a sort of country inn kind of feel to it. It’s like being in the Tuscan countryside, and the vibe is fun and inviting. This trattoria is away from the crowds on the other side of town, away from the Duomo. They serve classic Tuscan Cuisine that includes: artisan Salumi, Crostini Toscano, homemade pasta with Wild Boar Ragu, and the famed Bistecca Fiorentina. All expertly prepared by the chef, who is none other than Mamma’s son.
We sat down and looked over the menu and wine list. We decided on a bottle of Brunello to go with our meal. Mamma was taking care of us personally, and she smiled and gave us a wink when we ordered the Brunello. A couple minutes later she came back with the Brunello, rolling a cart up to our table to serve the wine from. She set down three nice wine glasses on the table. There was one glass on her cart. Then she pulled the cork. She sniffed the cork, smiled, gave us a nod, and said, “Buona.” Then some Brunello in each of our glasses, and said, “some wine for Mamma?’ Both a question and stipulation. We all said “of course mamma. Enjoy.” Mamma poured a little bit of Brunello in her glass, held her glass to ours, and said “Cin Cin,” and we all cheered to each other. The night was off to a wonderful start, and we were all quite happy. Why wouldn’t we be? We hit it off with Mamma, and she was taking great care of us. We adored her.
Mamma left the table to take care of other customers, and Tom, Maron, and I smiled, toasted each other again, sipped the wine, and Tom stated, “How lucky are we?” We all agreed. We were in Florence, at Pandemonio, drinking Brunello, and hitting it off with Mamma. As they say, “It doesn’t get any better than this.”
Mamma came back to the table, and we told her what we wanted to eat. We ordered antipasto fo Crostini, Salami & Prosciutto. For the primi, we would all have a small portion of Pici Pasta with Wild Boar Ragu. The main course would be a beautiful Bistecca Fiorentina. “Wow, was it good.?”
After the steak we had Olive Oil Cake and espresso. Very good.
Then Mamma wheeled a cart to our table. It was filled with about a dozen bottles of Tuscany's finest Grappa. Mamma was offering us all Grappa on the house. We all picked a Grappa, and dear sweet Mamma poured us each a glass, and of course one for herself. We all held up our glasses and cheered each other, “ah Salute.”
Wow. What a night. It started getting later and there were just three tables of diners left. Everyone was having a great time, and Mamma and her sister-in-law (a waitress) pushed all the tables together. We all chit-chatted, drank grappa and Chianti, and had teh most wonderful time.
It turns out there was a famous Italian artist among us all. He was larger than life and a quite gregarious man. He took a napkin and drew a “Flying Penis.” Very talented. And so we all had a most fabulous time. This was without a doubt one of the most memorable meals of my life. Absolutely phenomenal. And what a day? A private lunch with The Conti Cappone, brothers Nicola & Sebastiano, at Villa Calcinaia in Greve. Then we met Giovanni Manetti at his estate Fontodi in Greve, where he gave us a private wine tasting of his wonderful wines. Then it was back to Florence.
I got back to the hotel and took a little nap, before getting dressed, meeting Tom & Moron at The Grand Hotel, and then going to Pandemonio for the most wonderful dinner of my life. I highly recommend that you go too. And maybe you tell me that it was the best meal of your entire trip. Enjoy.
